A WEEK IN THE LANGDALE VALLEY 

15th February - 21st February 2014

(written in one continuous post)

Saturday 15th February 2014. We arrived in Ambleside at 10.30a.m. following a very wet and windy trip from Norfolk. As usual our first port of call was The Apple Pie Eating House and Bakery for coffee. Ambleside has a proliferartion of outdoor clothing an footwear shops. SALE signs in all windows gave evidence of the poor trading position that many businesses are finding themselves in. Needing a new walking I visited Gaynors where I was happy to take advantage of half price bargains.
We checked on the opening hours of the Armitt Museum where there is an interesting exhibition about Beatrix Potter entitled Image & Reality, to which we are to return during the coming week.
We continued on our journey to our cottage in the Langdale Valley which is to be our home for the next week. This is our third visit to the same cottage. It is well positioned in the valley in Chapel Stile with great views of the Langdale Pikes from the front door.. The mountains were capped with snow. A few photographs taken on our first day appear below.

Sunday 15th February 2014
The weather forecast predicted a day when the storms of recent weeks would make way to a quieter spell of weather with some bright spells. We weren't to be disappointed! There was a chill in the light breeze, but the sun came out from behind the clouds and gave a magical brightness to the fells.

We walked from the cottage up the Langdale Valley to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel for morning coffee in the lounge. Surprisingly an old gentlemen we met there last year was still sitting in the same seat he had occupied 12 months ago. We chatted, finding out that he had been coming to the Hotel for the last 43 years. Since his wife died he makes the journey from Essex for at least a week every month.
The walls of the lounge are closely decorated with pictures of lakeland scenes and antiquarian maps of Westmorland and Cumberland.

This is a hidden gem, away from the noise of the climber's bar. A large cafetiere of freshly brewed coffee and two large slices of flapjack for £4.80 prepared us for the walk up the fell over to Blea Tarn.

This is one of our favourite walks. As we walked along the road to climb the track over to Blea Tarn we noticed the new fad for accomodation in this part of the lakes Herdy Huts. They claim to provide luxury camping at its very best in a bespoke Shepherd's Hut. Just one price all year round!

As we walked along the valley spectacular views of the Pikes are seen behind. Although a few cars passed us on the road leading to the Blea Tarn Car Park there were not many people around, probably having been put off by the weather of recent weeks. One of my favourite lakeland houses come into view - Blea Tarn House.

In recent years the National Trust have built a better path to give a route around Blea Tarn that opens up great views. Today there was a gentle breeze creating ripples across the water. Many have been the times when, on still days, we have stood at the water's edge and taken in the reflections of the mountains.

Before looking for a spot for lunch we stopped at the edge of the wood and had a game of Pooh Sticks which Jackie won by some distance as my stick hit the slow side of the stream.

Following lunch we continued our walk back to the top of the pass above the Mickleden Valley before descending back down to The Sticklebarn next to the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

Snow on the top of Crinckle Crags

The Sticklebarn has been taken over by the National Trust and is run as the Trust's first ever Pub.

A welcome rest with a drink and a portion of tasty chunky chips to share. This is a popular venue! We now had a couple of miles of easy walking along the valley back to our cottage.

Home Sweet Home

Monday 17th February 2014

The mist hangs in the valley and there is dampness in the air. Looking up the valley you can see the dark outline of The Langdales. Rain is forecast for the day so it will be Grasmere and Ambleside. No doubt visits to museums and churches could be on the list.
Grasmere was very quiet when we arrived. The shops were only just starting to open. As usual we went to the bookshop on the corner.and the National Trust Shop where at this time of year there is always a log fire roaring in the hearth. Has always been a good place to photograph Robins.

The young man at the local bookshop told us that until yesterday they had had 50 consecutive days of rain! Had to pay a visit to the world famous Sarah Nelson's Grasmere Gingerbread Shop. Had a chat with the lady wrapping the gingerbread packs and took a quick snap. All available by mail order!!! Delicious….but certainly not for diabetics!!!

Grasmere is a centre for coach parties throughout the year. They are drawn by the links to William & Dorothy Wordsworth. It was a wet morning, but there were still 20 or so tourists photographing the grey slab of William Wordsworth's grave!  At least a third of the shops are selling walking clothing and associated footwear etc…big SALE signs cover the windows. Very much a sign of the times!
On returning to the car park (£4 for 3 hours) I noticed the following road sign..

A coffee and scone and then back to the car to travel a few miles down the road to Ambleside. We visited the Armit Museum to view the new Beatrix Potter Exhibition. It was by far the best exhibition on Miss Potter and her family that we had seen. I went up to the Libray and got chatting to the librarian. He was rather scathing of Beatrix Potter's popular appeal stating "she was far more than someone who wrote books about those little rabbits". An enjoyable hour.

We wanted to go to the Parish Church as I remembered a large mural depicting Ambleside's Rushbearing celebrations. 

Rushbearing Mural

From an early engraving. Rushbearing in Ambleside 1835.

The Church hads recently been updated with new seating allowing for greater community use. 

A Prayer Area

What a great idea! The Crumpet Service.

Back to the cottage for an afternoon watching the Winter Olympics and a light lunch. The view from our front door made for depressing viewing. Low cloud and heavy rain!

View across the valley from our front door.

Tuesday 18th February 2014

Although overcast with low cloud remaining over the fells, it is dry! Boots on and off along the valley to Skelwith Bridge and coffee at Chesters. Soon the rain returned! It was a damp walk, but one we always enjoy knowing that a freshly brewed coffee is awaiting us at Chesters. The rain over the last weeks meant the river was in full spate.

Elterwater Bridge

The path was quiet, certainly not like it is in the summer when I have this vision of it being virtually heel to toe! The path follows the river which flows through Elterwater before being forced into the narrow ravine and cascade over Skelwith Force.

On the rocks above Skelwith Force

After following the path for a few hundred yards you enter the now deserted courtyard of what was once Kirkstone Quarries. The business went into administration in 2012 and closed down. Now the slate cutting rooms and showrooms stand quiet and empty. In the rain it was a sad scene.

Old Workshops

Coffee and something to eat is always a real treat at Chesters. The shop is a colourful array of gifts, toys and stationary from the best sources. High prices! 

Always nice to look at…never allowed to touch !!

Chesters was named after an English Bull Terrier who lived at a local Inn, The Drunken Duck. He is also remembered on the label of a bottle of ale from local brewers Barngates in Ambleside.

We will soon be moving after almost 30 years in the same house. Over the years I have been an avid collecter and hoarder. My Daughter-in -Law would love this book! I have promised to declutter! Help!

We walked back to Elterwater stopping to photograph trees and misty horizons. 

Back in Elterwater we wandered round to look at Judy Boyes Gallery. A number of her prints hang on our walls depicting aspects of the Langdale Valley. We were disappointed to find that the gallery had closed. A sign in the window stated that because of the success of Mail Order the Gallery was now closed. A sign of the times….why pay rent, rates, wages and insurance when the Internet reaches a worldwide audience. JUDY BOYES GALLERY ONLINE

The popular Britania Inn in Elterwater

We collected the car and drove over the fells to Hawkeshead to look for a Peter Rabbit soft toy for a very special little boy. Hawkeshead is often used as a film location in  period dramas. The Beatrix Potter Gallery occupies her husband William Heelis' former solicitor offices in the middle of the village. We had a good visit looking at the watercolour originals for the small books. For many years we have looked forward to looking in the bookshop in the Market Place. No longer! It closed down last year, another victim to online sales!

Outside the Beatrix Potter Gallery

Sun Cottage Cafe, Hawkeshead - The largest sponge cakes I have ever seen!

Another good day. We are looking forward to returning to Cathedral Cave in Little Langdale tomorrow hoping to discover the entrance to the main chamber. Hopefully won't need to crawl or use our torches too much!

Wednesday 19th February 2014

We had high hopes of reasonable weather today. After early rain the clouds lifted a little and by the end of the morning there were glimpses of the sun.  We had been planning the walk for today since last year when we first discovered the existance of the Cathedral Cave in the quarries in Little Langdale. (Little Langdale was the location for the filming in  2012 of Snow White and the Huntsman). We wanted to find the lower entrance to the main cavern with the hope that the entry tunnel was easily accessible  and not too long. We weren't to be disappointed. The large cavern 'like a cathedral', was wonderful to behold. Not mentioned in any of the Lake District guidebooks it has almost become something of a myth. 'The Cathedral', is a 40-foot high main chamber lit by two windows with a huge pillar supporting the roof.

We found the main entrance. The National Trust don't publicise

it and it does not appear on any OS Map.

It was only a short tunnel!

The power of a flash !

What an amazing cavern !

We met another intrepid explorer who offered to take our photograph !

Look! It's a "J"…

On the way out….

On leaving the quarry we headed for the Three Shires Inn for a drink and packet of crisps. The Inn was built in 1872 and named after the original three counties of Westmorland, Cumberland and Lancashire. We saw a sign directing us across the fell and down to Slaters Bridge. This is a 17th Century packhorse bridge that crosses the River Brathay.

I have always enjoyed photographing trees and today I was not to be disappointed. Quite close to where we had left the car was a tree on a mound. Looking up at it from the road it stood out against the sky…I have called the following photograph "The Tree of Life"..

The sheep today also stood still and looked at the lens !

The walk back to the bottom of the Wrynose Pass was enjoyable. The Sun came out and there was some great might over the valley.

Towards the end of our walk we were disturbed by off road vehicles. The new craze that amazingly the National Trust supports! Well, I for one was not very impressed. I appreciate that the National Park has to be shared by all…..but…surely this is just going too far!

These vehicles were the theme of my conversation for quite a time!

On the way back to our cottage we stopped at the Langdale Co-op for provisions.

The signs outside always make me smile.

Thursday 20th February 2014

It was a very wet and windy night. The morning is very dull and the rain bounces off the grey slate. The forecast suggests that things will cheer up later in the morning although remaining blustery. We have decided to return to the Apple Pie in Ambleside for breakfast deciding on our plans for the day over coffee.

DRY STONE WALLS 

During our stay this year I have made an attempt to record some of the different constructions of Lakeland dry stone walls seen in the Langdale Valley. These walls are a major characteristic of the landscape, forming boundaries between roads and fields and snaking away up to the high fells. Dry stone walls are used to divide up the farming landscape and clear the fields of stones. The fields around farms in the valleys are known as in-bye fields, but the fields up the fellside have been 'taken' from the fell and are known as in-take fields. The land above the highest wall is the open fell.

The following information about how the walls are built is taken from a factsheet from Coniston Museum.

“Dry Stone Walls are built without mortar or cement. It is essential that they have a good foundation. A shallow trench 4 or 5 feet wide is prepared. Then the FOOTING stones are laid on a firm sub-soil or rock foundation. These footings are large and usually square shaped boulders which are placed in two parallel rows- square ends facing outwards. The space between the two rows is filled with small irregular stones called HEARTINGS. These bind together under pressure. Subsequently COURSES of stones are laid, making sure that each walling stone rests on two stones in the course below. The two sides taper towards the top and are bound together with long cross-stones or THROUGHS. Well built walls often had two or more sets of throughs at different heights above the footing stones. When the wall reached the required height it was finished off with a final course of thinner slab-like stones on top of which the CAMS or COPING STONES were placed. These could be beck cobbles or slate-like stones stacked on edge and all leaning the same way. The main purpose of the cams was to discourage sheep from jumping over the wall.”

I have always had an interest in these walls, their design being sometimes planned and others appear as if it would depend on what stone was picked up next. Perhaps I do an injustice to the wall builders, but sometimes they appear quite haphazard. That’s what attracts me and makes each wall unique…a work of art and a joy for the photographer!

The rain had stopped, so following a very lazy 1 ½ hours over breakfast we decided to walk up Stock Ghyll Force. With all the rain the waterfalls were dramatic. We passed a stump of an old tree that had had 100s of coins hammered into it. Who says money doesn’t grow on trees. This practice seems to have happened on many trunks scattered around British woodlands. Click here to read more.   Is wishing on a tree just a waste of cash? Another article about this spreading phenomena. The photograph below is the tree stump by the side of Stock Ghyll.

The Ambleside Wishing Tree…

Next we noticed a sign warning drivers to be careful of Red Squirrels…unfortunately we didn’t spot any! See “Red Squirrels are making acomeback in the Lake District” 

We reached the top of Stock Ghyll and paused a moment to watch the power of the water cascading over the ledge and down the ravine. 

Stock Ghyll waterfall

When we got back to the main part of the town, I took a couple of shots of the 17^th Century Bridge House, that has amazingly remained standing as the town of Ambleside has developed around it.

The 17th Century Bridge House at Ambleside

Back at the car we decided to take a drive up to the summit of the Kirkstone Pass to the Old Kirkstone Pass Inn before driving back down via Troutbeck in order to photograph the 16^th Century Townend Barn that just exudes history. I never tire of snapping it! The great thing is that it is still in use as part of a working farm.

Townend Barn C16th

. 

From Troutbeck we drove the few miles to Grasmere for another look around the shops. Discovered a new chocolate shop, the Grasmere ChocolateCottage.

The shop, as well as selling a good range of chocolate products also stock an interesting range of sheep themed tea towels and hessian bags .  

We were a 100 yards from the car park and had dodged showers all day, but this time we got a good soaking. Time to return to Chapel Stile and the warmth of our cottage.

Friday 21st February 2014

A very wet and windy morning. The rain is lashing against the front windows as I look out across the fells. The forecast is of much the same during the day with the possibility of a rumble of thunder thrown into the mix. Our final day in the Valley for 2014. 

Over breakfast we decided against walking up the valley as a good soaking isn't something either of us consider fun! We decided to explore a little further afield by car. We firstly visited the little slate Church at Chapel Stile as had read that there was an interesting tapestry representing the history of the Langdale Valley. We weren't to be disappointed!

Tapestry on wall inside Chapel Stile Church. 

Designed and embroidered by the ladies of Langdale to celebrate the Millennium

A chapel has existed on the site since the early C16th. The print below is one published by Ackermann in 1810. However, with growth of the population in the area because of the gunpowder factory, bobbin making and quarrying the chapel became too small. It was therefore decided to build the present church of Holy Trinity, completed in 1858. It was financed by two local benefactors.

Chapel Stile Chapel 1810

We next drove to Coniston to visit the Ruskin Museum. 

Having visited it a few years back the new DonaldCampbell wing was now open with an exhibition of the attempts on the World Water Speed Record by Campbell in his powered boat Bluebird and his tragic death on the lake when Bluebird took off (1967).

The Donald Campbell Wing

The boat was recovered from the depths of Coniston in 2001 and is currently being restored and will eventually have centre place in the exhibition hall. What an interesting museum it was and I recommend to anyone going to the Lake District. The words of Donald Campbell say much !

The weather was still very much against an enjoyable and comfortable walk, so being near enough lunchtime we returned to The Sticklebarn at Dungeon Ghyll for a sandwich and drink. Earlier in the week we had noticed a small chapel not far from New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and decided we wanted to find out more about it. We were fortunate to meet someone with a key who acted as our guide. The Chapel is dedicated to Our Lady of the Snow. A lovely atmospheric place of worship as the following photos go a little way to show.

Photographs taken in the Chapel of Our Lady of the Snow

The Roman Catholic Chapel is looked after by the Achille Ratti Climbing Club who run the converted barn next door. This is a fascinating story told to us by one of the members who was good enough to unlock and show us around the chapel.  Achille Ratti was a Catholic priest in Italy who was also a very accomplished climber. He later went on to become Pope Pius X1.

I shall leave the last words to 4 knowledgeable sheep!

Now back at the cottage and starting to pack for the long drive home on Saturday. Although a number of very wet days we have had a great time. 
Just as I am about to push the publish button I can hear the wind blowing up the valley and the rain bouncing off the slate steps outside the cottage!

Thanks for reading this blog. I hope it brought as much pleasure to you as it did to me in writing it!
Please leave a comment if you wish.
If you are going to the Lakes on holiday you may also wish to follow our exploits in 2013.